Oh yes.

Who’s the nigger with the fastest trigger?
Shaft.

It’s a lovely evening in Guangzhou, the air crisp and chill, the music in my ear of the Isaac Hayes variety, the surroundings gracing my presence of the silly-commercial-face-wash-photo-shoot genre.

Actually, in all honesty, I dig this studio. It’s much more swank than the others I’ve been in recently- bamboo floors, nice sound system, bookcases full of photography books. Not to imply that the lovely system is being used to bump Isaac Hayes- that’s all coming to me straight from my lovely lover of a laptop. Yay for the foresight to tell which days will present opportunities that make lugging the laptop worth it.

We’ve been the last week or so in Guangzhou, which is my favorite favorite of Chinese cities. The air is heavy and damp, warm like the air back home. The streets are lined with banyan trees and the markets are superb. Did I mention the Durians yet? Cause I’ve bought one for each day I’ve been here. And the coconuts…ohh fruit, how you do send me into fits of absolute delight. Creamy, custardy, fetid fecundity…how anyone can cringe at a Durian I do not understand. Few things make me as unfailingly pleased as fresh ripe fruit. Not to mention fresh, ripe vegetables. Let’s not even get started on fresh, ripe people.

Though, all jokes aside, as I was eating my Durian today I started to ponder one of those Durian or sex kind of questions. The thing I like most about fruit is, it loves me without expecting anything in return. Maybe I shouldn’t be revealing that there was even a contest between sex and eating fresh fruit. Maybe that’s just a little too far off the deep end…

Enough of that…what is Guangzhou all about? Well, it’s in Guangdong, which is where pretty much everything you buy that has a little ‘Made in China’ stamp somewhere on it is made. It’s also where most commercials, tv shows, and print ads are shot. As a result of these two insidious characteristics, everything in Guangzhou is simultaneously for sale and on sale. However, in contrast to Hong Kong, this does not lend to Guangzhou a commoditized, cloying air of consumerism. I think it’s because of all the trees. Or the fresh fruit stands. Everywhere. Whatever it is, I’ve been able to prance around this city non-stop for the last week and feel quite fulfilled. Shoots, both commercial and print, mean lots of time to amuse myself, which means hours of uninterrupted exploring. I’ve come across winding, wide banyan covered boulevards and cramped narrow alleyways lined with glowing over spilling shops. These two things within walking distance of each other cinch the contest of Jessie’s favorite city.

I think the alleys amaze me most. They wind deep into residential neighborhoods, tiny and cramped, and along their seemingly endless length are lined with all manner of fruit, spice, electronic, and odds/ends stands. They bustle and overflow with throngs that clearly walk these particular cobble stones daily, live a stones throw away, and are about their regular business. Buildings loom 5 to 6 stories on either side, wide windows thrown open tempting a breeze of the thick air. It’s just so inviting and luscious. Full of life. Full of movement. Fresh and unfettered.

As for the markets, well, you’ll find things in Guangzhou markets that you’ll be hardpressed to find anywhere else in china. I mean, I was under the mistaken impression that I had been to well stocked markets in Beijing and Shanghai, but I think no Chinese open air market connosieur can even call themselves such until they’ve stepped foot inside one of Guangzhou’s many amazing specimens. I’m talking fresh coconuts to fresh alligator to scotch bonnets to sour sap fruit to cured dog to purple kale to traditional Chinese medicinal cupping done with hand carved bamboo cups and a tea foot bath while you’re waiting for the rest of your party to finish up purchases for dinner. Word life.

I’m now listening to Balkan Gyspy Beats on my laptop while the little lady is showcasing herself in a red shift dress and unfurling a Chinese New Year scroll. Such is life.

Jessie

Ps. I find well toned arms are alluring.